Exploring Ayutthaya Historical Park (Part 6): Good Bye Old City of Siam

It was already four PM when I bid farewell to the skeletons of the Portuguese Village and started biking to the old city. I had enough of Thai temples for the day so I had no intention of visiting one until I passed by this white wat along the way:

Well, there’s no harm in touring another temple so I decided to do a last temple visit.

This temple is Wat Buddhai Sawan. It was one of the first temples erected in the early years of Ayutthaya Kingdom. In fact, this was built during the reign of Ayutthaya's first king, U-Thong.

The main temple is very similar to Wat Ratchaburana, which is located in the old city.

                               

Unlike the temples in the old city, the Buddha statues in Wat Buddhai Sawan are intact. It is as if the invading Burmese did not dare harm this temple.

There are also some golden Buddha statues, which I believe were installed recently.

They look similar with the Buddhas in Bangkok’s Wat Arun.

I bet that if there were golden buddhas in this temple in the past the invading Burmese surely took them home.

The unique sight that I saw in Wat Buddhai Sawan is the statue of the reclining Buddha.

This buddha statue was also left unharmed by the invaders.

There’s not much to see in Wat Buddhai Sawan, so I resumed biking to the old city.

I went back to Better Café to return the bike and have some refreshments before going home.

I ordered a glass of blueberry smoothie and a piece of cake. There’s nothing special about these food but they are refreshing nonetheless. This is perfect reward for my successful tour around Ayutthaya Historical Park.

As I mentioned in a previous post, Better Café is the shop where I rented my bike. The rental costs 100 Baht for whole day. Good thing that I rented a bike because I couldn’t reach the many interesting spots in Ayutthaya by just walking.

So, that’s it! The last part of my adventure in Ayutthaya, the old capital of Thailand. It was one of the best adventures that I had during my 6-month stay in this country. I really enjoyed this place a lot even though I travelled alone.

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Read more of my adventure in Ayutthaya Historical Park

Exploring Ayutthaya Historical Park (Part 1): The Ruins of Wat Mahathat
Exploring Ayutthaya Historical Park (Part 2): The Crypt of Wat Ratchaburana
Exploring Ayutthaya Historical Park (Part 3): Close Encounter with Thai Elephants
Exploring Ayutthaya Historical Park (Part 4): St. Joseph Church of Ayutthaya
Exploring Ayutthaya Historical Park (Part 5): The Gruesome Skeletons and Ruins of the Portuguese Village
A Biker’s Adventure in Ayutthaya Historical Park

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Exploring Ayutthaya Historical Park (Part 5): The Gruesome Skeletons and Ruins of the Portuguese Village

I signed up for an archaeology class during my first year in college. It was a disappointment. I thought that we’ll be visiting archaeological sites and dig up some relics. All that I did was read books, attend class, and pass some papers.

I didn’t took another Archaeology class again and I thought that seeing an excavation site is not meant for me. I was wrong because 10 years later I accidentally visited an excavation site – not in the Philippines but in Ayutthaya, Thailand.

Ruins of the Portuguese Village.

The ruins is what remained of the Portuguese Village in Ayutthaya. It was the home of Portuguese traders, soldiers and priests – who settled in the rich Kingdom of Ayutthaya.

The map of Ayutthaya Kingdom.

The Portuguese Village is located far away from the popular tourist spots of Ayutthaya Historical Park. I believe that very few tourist buses venture here. From St. Joseph Church, I biked to the village for about 20 minutes.

The place is empty. I was the only tourist who was in the village at that time and it was a good thing. It meant that I can roam the place without other people photobombing my shots.

The Portuguese Village is a testament of the very long relationship between Thailand and Portugal, which started in 1511 when a Portuguese diplomatic mission was sent to the Siamese court. The mission was meant to settle any dispute on Portugal’s invasion of Malacca. The diplomatic mission was a success because the king has no dispute. In fact, the king and the Portuguese immediately created a good relationship after that first diplomatic mission.

Five years after the first diplomatic mission, Portugal and Ayutthaya concluded a trade treaty. Portugal will supply firearms and ammunition while Ayutthaya guaranteed the Portuguese a place for their settlement.

Around 300 Portuguese, most of them traders and soldiers, settled in Ayutthaya. Almost 200 years later, the population grew to 4,000 people.

Commemorative stamps celebrating the 500 years of diplomatic relationship between Portugal and Siam.

Aside from trading, the Portuguese also served as mercenaries for the Thai king. They fought wars against the Burmese. They also trained Siamese soldiers on the use of firearms.

The Portuguese village was not spared when Burmese invaders razed the city of Ayutthaya in 1767. The Portuguese fought bravely but they were short on ammunition and supplies so they had no choice but to surrender.

The ruins were the remains of Saint Peter Church, administered by the Dominicans. It is composed of low brick walls that separates the rooms. The rooms are recognizable thanks to the signs posted by archaeologists, like this room of the priest:

The room in the photo below is the toilet:

Their latrine is quite big, right?

The Dominicans made their own soap as evidenced by the room where the soap ferment pit is located:

Then there is the altar room:

The altar was gone since the Burmese ransacked the holy and precious things in the church.

Aside from the Dominicans, the Jesuits and Franciscans were also present in the Portuguese Village.

Excavation site of an old Catholic cemetery in Ayutthaya.

In the building behind the church ruins is the most exciting part of the excavation site. It is the cemetery where some of the skeletons are displayed to any tourists who cared to visit.

People who were buried in the village is composed, not only of the Portuguese, but also of Thai who converted to Christianity.

The skeletons were not the only items excavated in the Portuguese Village. There were also crucifixes and other religious items, coins, and Chinese porcelains. Sadly, I didn’t find any of such items lying around. That would’ve been an excellent souvenir for this trip.

At the back of the excavation site is an interesting sight. It is a small house built by Thais for the spirits.

This “spirit house” is unusual because it housed the statues of Saint Peter and Saint Paul.

Incense and flowers are offered to them too just like the revered heroes of Thailand.

I am glad that I went beyond the usual during my tour around the old city of Ayutthaya. I was able to visit some unusual spots like the Ayutthaya Church and the ruins of the Portuguese Village. My biking under the sun was not in vain.

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Travel Notes:

1. The Portuguese Village is usually not included in the itinerary of Ayutthaya tours so don’t expect any tour company to take you there. The village can be reached by riding a tuktuk or a taxi. The best way to reach the village by biking. Bikes may be rented from shops in Ayutthaya.

2. There was no entrance fee during my visit to the Portuguese Village. In fact, the people guarding the excavation site didn’t bother me when I took photos and roamed the place.

3. There were no shops in the vicinity of the Portuguese Village so it is advisable that you purchase water and food while in the main city of Ayutthaya.

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Read my other adventures in Ayutthaya Historical Park:

Exploring Ayutthaya Historical Park (Part 1): The Ruins of Wat Mahathat
Exploring Ayutthaya Historical Park (Part 2): The Crypt of Wat Ratchaburana
Exploring Ayutthaya Historical Park (Part 3): Close Encounter with Thai Elephants
Exploring Ayutthaya Historical Park (Part 4): St. Joseph Church of Ayutthaya
A Biker’s Adventure in Ayutthaya Historical Park

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References:

Information regarding the Portuguese Village was obtained from the “History of Ayutthaya”.
Image of the stamp obtained from Siam Stamp Catalogue.

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Exploring Ayutthaya Historical Park (Part 4): St. Joseph Church of Ayutthaya

Searching for a Catholic church in Thailand is like finding a needle in the haystack. Catholics are rare in Thailand that they’re only 0.46% of the total Thai population. This is the reason why I was so happy when I saw a Catholic church on the other side of the river during my tour around the ruins of Ayutthaya Kingdom.

I biked around 30 minutes just to reach this church. There were no clouds in the sky and the sun burned me with full force. All the sweat and exhaustion paid off when I finally reached the church and then welcomed by the gold and white colors of the Vatican flag.

A cemetery greeted me when I entered the gate.

I spent some time looking at some of the interesting tombs and markers, some of which combined Siamese and Christian elements like this one:

The engraving definitely depicts the child Jesus but in a posing similar to that of Buddha. The necklace around his neck is similar to the Buddhist beads.

Another tomb marker depicts the Sacred Heart.

Even this marker has Siamese art elements. Just look at the lotus flowers at the three ends of the cross.

Some of the tomb markers are half-buried in the ground. I believe that these are the tombs for people buried a long time ago.

St. Joseph Parish Church is one of the oldest churches in Thailand. I believe that it was older than the Catholic churches in Bangkok since Ayutthaya was the first capital of the Kingdom of Siam.

St. Joseph Church was first built in wood in 1673 after King Narai provided the French missionaries with a large piece of land and assistance. It was said that the king was pleased with missionaries’ concern for the welfare of his people. This is also a political move since the king counted on the French to contain the influence of the Dutch.

Excavated archaeological relics in St. Joseph Church.

The church was rebuilt in bricks between 1685 and 1695. Unfortunately, it was destroyed when Burma invaded Ayutthaya in 1767. The invading Burmese promised that no harm will come to the church if the Bishop, priests, and all Christians hiding in the church will surrender. The Christians surrendered but the Burmese didn’t keep their word. The church was looted and then burned.

The French missionaries, under the leadership of Bishop Jean Louis Vey, started to rebuild St. Joseph Church in 1883 and completed in 1891. Due its importance to the history of the Catholic Church in Siam, Bangkok Archbishop Michael Michai Kitbunchu started the renovation of the church in 2003.

St. Joseph Church is in Romanesque style. Its façade is quite similar with Church of Kalawar in Bangkok because each church has a single bell tower at the center.

The interior of St. Joseph Church is not as grand as that in Bangkok Cathedral. But it was a breath of fresh air from the suffocating mass of ruins of old city of Ayutthaya.

The image of St. Joseph, the parish’s patron saint, is at the altar. He is carrying the infant Jesus in his arms.

I say that St. Joseph Church in Ayutthaya is simple yet its beauty is in its simplicity.

I am glad to discover this church. I am also glad that the church was open and the good people of this church allowed me to stay for a while and take photos.

St. Joseph Church is the beacon of faith in the whole of Thailand. It stood for hundreds of years and I hope that it will stand for hundreds of years more.

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Read more about other Catholic churches in Thailand:

Our Lady Mother of God Church in Rangsit, Pathumthani
Holy Redeemer Church in Bangkok
St. Louis Church in Bangkok
Kalawar Church in Bangkok
Bangkok Cathedral

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Read my other adventures in Ayutthaya Historical Park:

Exploring Ayutthaya Historical Park (Part 1): The Ruins of Wat Mahathat
Exploring Ayutthaya Historical Park (Part 2): The Crypt of Wat Ratchaburana
Exploring Ayutthaya Historical Park (Part 3): Close Encounter with Thai Elephants
A Biker’s Adventure in Ayutthaya Historical Park

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Information about Saint Joseph Church and historical tidbits about Ayutthaya Kingdom were obtained from these online sources:

1. St. Joseph Church in History of Ayutthaya
2. St. Joseph Catholic Church - Ayutthaya website

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A Biker’s Adventure in Ayutthaya Historical Park

Biking is the best way to tour the Ayutthaya Historical Park, especially if you are not part of a programmed tour. I, for instance, did not join any Ayutthaya tour or hired a tour guide so I was on my own. Good thing that there are shops within the historical park that rent bicycles.

I rented my bicycle from Better Café, which is located near Wat Mahathat.

The lady owner asked a photocopy of my passport and 100 baht as the bike’s rental fee for the whole day.

I confess that I only learned how to bike when I went to Thailand. I practiced in the evenings so that people will not see me fall. I remember that I hit a tree and a trash can during my practice.

My adventure in Ayutthaya was my first time to bike with cars and trucks on the same road. It was a little scary but I kept myself safe by staying at the outer lanes.

I got bored with visiting another temple after visiting two temples: Wat Mahathat and Wat Ratchaburana. What I saw in two temples will be the same at the other temples. Since I had nowhere to go, I just biked to check some interesting things in Ayutthaya Historical Park like these elephants:

Minor temples abound within the historical park and most of them have free admission.

I biked near the river bank and I saw these Catholic church on the other side.

I knew that I have to go to that church so I crossed the bridged immediately to go to the periphery of old city of Ayutthaya.

Interesting spots dotted the riverbank outside of Ayutthaya. There are temples like the Wat Chaiwatthanaram, which looks like Wat Ratchaburana.

There is also a monument for a local hero, whose name I forgot to take note.

Thais offered flowers and food to him as if he is a deity. This way of honoring local heroes is typical in Thailand.

I reached St. Joseph Church after a 30 minutes. All I can say is that I was blown away by the beauty of this church. I never thought to see such a church in Ayutthaya. I will talk about St. Joseph Church in the next post.

I continued my biking adventure after spending an hour in St. Joseph Church. My destination this time was the ruins of the Portuguese settlement. I will talk about this settlement in a future post.

Biking around Ayutthaya Historical Park is gruelling because of the intense heat of the sun. But it was a good experience. I was able to move freely and I own my time. So, if you’re planning to go to Ayutthaya I suggest that you try renting a bike and go wherever you please.

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Read my adventures in Ayutthaya Historical Park:

Exploring Ayutthaya Historical Park (Part 1): The Ruins of Wat Mahathat
Exploring Ayutthaya Historical Park (Part 2): The Crypt of Wat Ratchaburana
Exploring Ayutthaya Historical Park (Part 3): Close Encounter with Thai Elephants
Exploring Ayutthaya Historical Park (Part 4): St. Joseph Church of Ayutthaya

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Exploring Ayutthaya Historical Park (Part 3): Close Encounter with Thai Elephants

I didn’t know where to go after visiting Wat Mahathat and Wat Ratchaburana. There are other temples in Ayutthaya Historical Park but thought then that visiting a third temple is too much. I will be seeing the same ruins and the same Buddha statues.

I just walked without any direction until I saw two mammoths walking down the street.

Elephants! It was a delightful sight to see a live elephant although it was not my first time to get near one. In fact, I met Manila Zoo’s controversial elephant before I went to Thailand. Also, I touched an elephant skull during my visit to Phukhieo Wildilife Park.

Riding on an elephant is a must-experience in Thailand. Tourists go from all over the world just to experience riding the ancient “car” of kings and maharajahs.

I followed the Thai elephant until I reached their pen where I saw more Thai elephants.

I discovered, to my dismay, that riding an elephant costs more than 100 baht. I didn’t want to spend that large amount of money. It is not worth it.

So I just contented myself at taking photos of the elephants in their pens.

I even took a selfie with them…

My closest encounter with a Thai elephant.

...and an elephant touched my palm. He thought that I have food. :-P

I bet that elephant is so disappointed.

Elephants are important part of Thai culture. They served as beasts of burden. More importantly, they served as the cavalry during ancient wars. Elephants are effective in destroying the formation of foot soldiers. Just imagine that you’re a soldier in the ancient times and a group of war elephants rampage towards you. I’m sure that you will run away lest you be stomped to death.

War elephants served ancient armies from Europe to Africa to India to Southeast Asia. The Romans, for instance, had a hard time fighting the Carthaginian general Hannibal because of the Carthage’s war elephants.

The Thai government recognized the importance of elephants in their culture that’s why they became the symbol of Thailand. It is evident in the royal seals and coat of arms.

The elephants in Ayutthaya Historical Park are trained while they were young. Thus, their obedience to the mahouts (elephant trainers) are deeply ingrained to their psyche (if they have that).

I was in for a treat that day when I saw a young elephant play with his mahout, which I recorded in this video:

That treat is enough for me. I’ve seen the elephants up close. I even touched one of them. Contented, I moved to another place in Ayutthaya Historical Park.

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Read my other adventures in Ayutthaya Historical Park:

Exploring Ayutthaya Historical Park (Part 1): The Ruins of Wat Mahathat
Exploring Ayutthaya Historical Park (Part 2): The Crypt of Wat Ratchaburana
Exploring Ayutthaya Historical Park (Part 4): St. Joseph Church of Ayutthaya
A Biker’s Adventure in Ayutthaya Historical Park

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