Showing posts with label Binondo. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Binondo. Show all posts

The Sad History of the Tombstone in front of Binondo Church

The floor in front of the door of Binondo Church catches my attention every time I enter the church. Of the bland marble stones laid in front of the church, only this big particular part has inscriptions that are difficult to understand. 


Tombstone of Juan Dionicio Coqua at the doors of Binondo Church
The mysterious tombstone at the door of Binondo Church.

The word that I read in the tombstone is AQVIYAZE JVAN DIONICIO. Below those big letters are 22 DED 1722 AÑ.

I suspected that this suspicious marble stone is a tombstone but I couldn't understand the text since I do not know how to read Spanish. So I enlisted the help of Google translate, which was also as clueless as me. At least Google search pointed me to a photo of a tomb of the Spanish king Don Pelayo that also bears the text AQVIYAZE. So, my suspicion was somehow confirmed that Binondo Church's tile is a tombstone.

A change in keywords brought me to an online paper which gave the proper rendering of the text. According to the paper, the text should be read as:

AQUI YAZE 

JUAN DIONICIO 

COQUA FALLEC EN 

27 DE F. DE 1722 AÑ

Super facepalm for me. I forgot that in old writings, the V should be read as U. 

The text, when translated to English, read as:

HERE LIES

JUAN DIONICIO

COQUA WHO DIED ON

27 OF FEBRUARY OF 1722

My suspicion is finally confirmed to be correct. That marble stone, or better known as piedra china, at Binondo Church's door marked the grave of Juan Dionicio Coqua, who died on February 27, 1722.

This discovery actually created more questions for me. Who is Juan Dionicio Coqua? And why was his tomb placed at the church’s door where churchgoers will step on it? These questions pushed me to do more online research and to the discovery of another dark part of our country’s history.

The history of Binondo is characterized by the inter-racial tension between the natives of Manila (the so called Indios), the Chinese immigrants, the Chinese mestizos (those who mostly have Chinese father and Indio mother) and the ruling Spaniards. The land of Binondo was donated in 1594 by Governor General Luis Pérez Dasmariñas to the Chinese who converted to Christianity. Some historians say that the donation was a way for the Governor General to skirt the royal decree of expelling the Chinese from Manila, possibly due to their involvement in the attack of Chinese pirate Limahong in 1574. However, based on another source, I believe another reason why the Chinese converts were transferred to Binondo was to separate the "good" Chinese from the "bad" Chinese living in the old Parian, which is located in the now Liwasang Bonifacio and Manila Post Office. 

Chinese as depicted in the Murillo-Velarde-Bagay Map
The Chinese or Sangleys as depicted in the Murillo-Velarde-Bagay Map. (Source: Wikimedia)

1594 is the year of great tension in Manila because of the arrival of a great number of Chinese ships loaded with men and weapons. The Spanish authorities suspected the Chinese but still welcomed their dignitaries. It was believed that the Chinese planned to invade Manila while the Spaniards were on a military campaign in Moluccas. However, they changed their minds when they saw the Spanish armada. 

The mandarins thought that the Spanish fleet is on a campaign in the Moluccas. The mandarins' intel was correct but already inaccurate. The military campaign to Moluccas was put into action by Governor General Governor Pérez de Dasmariñas in 1593. The military campaign did not push through, however, because the Chinese crew of the flag ship mutinied and killed the governor general. Had the Moluccas campaign pushed through then the Chinese mandarins may have been successful in invading Manila. Thus, it can be said that the planned invasion of Manila by China in 1593 was foiled by their fellow Chinese who mutinied during the Spanish military campaign to Moluccas.

Luis Pérez Dasmariñas, the son of the governor general killed by mutineers in the aborted Moluccas campaign, is the new governor general. As I said previously, Luis Pérez Dasmariñas is the governor general who made Binondo as the new settlement for the Chinese. In this new Chinatown, the Chinese were heavily taxed and had to pay large amount of fees as well as provide yearly labor to the government.

In May 1603, Chinese Mandarins visited Manila again. There mission is to search for a certain mountain in Cavite that produces great amount of gold and silver. The Spanish was suspicious of the mission but they still welcomed the mandarins like in their previous visit. The mandarins eventually left Manila but the colonial government were wary of the Chinese immigrants in Binondo. The result of this animosity is the so-called Chinese Rebellion of 1603 (according to colonial government sources) or the Chinese Massacre of 1603 (according to Chinese immigrant sources). The casualties of that event included the many dead Chinese immigrants, native Filipinos used as soldiers by the colonial government, and the death of colonial government officials that included Luis Pérez Dasmariñas himself.

Binondo, Manila circa 1739
Old map of Binondo circa 1739 as seen in the "Topographia de la Ciudad de Manila" by Hipolito Ximenez. (Source: The British Library)

Despite of the “bad blood”, the colonial government couldn't give up the Chinese immigrants because of their link to the Chinese mainland, which is vital for the success of the Galleon Trade. It is this link that the Dominican friars planned to take advantage of when Binondo was placed under their care 1596. The Dominicans used Binondo as their springboard for their missions to China.

The friars originally built Binondo Church with a cemetery adjoining it. Actually, the cemetery outside the church is for commoners while the prominent persons in the community, especially those who were the church's great benefactors, were buried inside the church. The big tombstone is then a proof that Juan Donicio Coqua was one of the prominent benefactors of Binondo Church.

Little is known about Juan Dionicio Coqua. Internet research did not yield good information. Facebook search yielded little result of any person who is surnamed Coqua. The only clue that I got is that coqua is a Latin word for "cook". Maybe Juan Dionicio Coqua was a cook or a restaurateur in Binondo.

Unfortunately, the prominence of Juan Dionicio Coqua and his family didn't guarantee that his final resting place will not be disturbed. There came a time when the Dominicans turned Binondo Church into a Filipino church. The result is that all piedra china were removed and destroyed. I cannot find any source when this happened but it can be after the British Invasion of Manila. During that incident, many Chinese immigrants sided with the British. Unfortunately, the Seven Years Wars between Spain and Britain ended and the treaty between the two nations declared that Manila will be returned to Spain. The Chinese in Manila received punishment from the Spanish colonial government and many of them were deported back to the mainland. Traces of Chinese culture in Binondo Church were possibly removed during that time.

The piedra china inside the church was defaced. According to the Richard T. Chu the Teresita Ang See, the Chinese characters, which is the vertical line on the piedra china, were removed from the tombstone of Donicio Cocqua.

There were other piedra china tiles on the floor of the Binondo Church but all of these were removed when the the church was wrecknovated renovated. The parish priest and the parish council who approved the allowed the destruction of centuries-old of historical artifacts.

Binondo Church is not the only church where the Chinese tombstones were disturbed. Santa Cruz Church, located at the other end of Ongpin Street, has piedra china tiles that are used to fence the plant box. 

Chinese Tombstones Outside of Santa Cruz Church, Manila
Piedra china outside of Santa Cruz Church.


The Chinese characters are clear. Some of the stones bear the text SEPULTURA, which means that they are indeed tombstones.

Chinese Tombstone Outside of Santa Cruz Church, Manila
"SEPULTURA" says the tombstone outside of Santa Cruz Church.


Santa Cruz Church is currently under the care of the Sacramentinos. However, the church was under the care of the Jesuits, who employed Chinese converts and Tagalogs in building the district of Santa Cruz from marshland into a liveable settlement.

It is sad to note that there is a dearth of study made into the history of the missing piedra china or Chinese tombstones in Binondo and Santa Cruz. This only means that there is much to be uncovered about the history of Manila, which I think will enrich our view of this city and the whole Philippines. Alas! The current state of these valuable artifacts shows that the living Filipinos of today do not care about the lives of the dead Filipinos and the stories that they can tell.

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Read more about Binondo in these blog posts:

1. Visita Iglesia 2019: Our Lady of the Most Holy Rosary Chinese Parish Church (Binondo, Manila)

2. Visita Iglesia: Binondo Church

3. Chinese New Year Feast along Ongpin Street

4. Chinese New Year in Binondo Chinatown

5. A Walk through Quintin Paredes Street

6. A Parade of Delicious Chinese Dishes

7. Yummy Hopia from Salazar Bakery

8. Searching for Wedding Rings and a Bad Day in Binondo Chinatown

9. Lunch Break at Lan Zhou La Mien

10. Eng Ho's Mamon Cake

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Historical info in this blog post was sourced from the following:

1. The massacre of 1603: Chinese perception of the Spaniards in the Philippines  by José Eugenio Borao

2. Chinese mestizo and natives' disputes in Manila and the1812 Constitution: Old privileges and new political realities(1813–15) by Ruth de Llobet

3. Toward a History of Chinese Burial Grounds in Manila during the Spanish Colonial Period by Richard T. Chu and Teresita Ang See

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The Abandoned House of Heneral Antonio Luna

There’s an old house nestled in the San Nicolas district of Manila that looks like an ordinary old house at first glance. This house has capiz windows, wooden walls at the top floor, and a large front door typical of the “bahay na bato” of the Spanish era.

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                         
Heneral Antonio Luna's house along Urbiztondo, San Nicolas Manila

The old house is actually the birthplace of General Antonio Luna. Unfortunately, just like other historical houses in our country, General Antonio Luna’s birthplace is in great disrepair. The roof is about to fall off and the windows have missing capiz shells.

Second floor of Heneral Antonio Luna's house in San Nicolas, Manila

General Luna’s house looked bad on the outside and I shudder to think how worse it is in the inside.

Heneral Antonio Luna's house in Binondo, Manila

Another sad fact is that the front of General Luna’s birthplace became a tambakan, parking lot, and even a sleeping place of Binondo’s homeless.


General Antonio Luna is considered as the best Filipino general during the Filipino – American War. Heneral Luna was an excellent strategist that even the Americans respected him. He brought discipline and professionalism in the fledgling Philippine Army. His reforming works hurt many in the army, especialy those whom Luna considered as cowards ad insubordinates. Well, these cowards and subordinates murdered him in 1899 as allegedly ordered by President Emilio Aguinaldo.1

Historical Marker for Heneral Luna's house in Binondo, Manila

Keeping the old house in its sorry state is not the good way to honor the general. The government cannot do anything, however, since the house is a private property. Lorenzo Tan, the Filipino-Chinese who owned the house, said that he is willing to sell it to the government for 100 million pesos but he received this answer: “no funds available”.2

Heneral Antonio Luna's Birthplace in Binondo, Manila

Mr. Tan also questioned the claim that the old house was the birthplace of Heneral Luna because the historical marker was originally placed on his mother-in-law’s house located near the old house. The mother-in-law didn’t want the marker so the National Historical Commission transferred it to Mr. Tan’s house. The alleged true “birth house” of Heneral Luna is now a condominium.

It is sad to know that there were issues about the Heneral Antonio Luna’s house in Binondo. Is this the reason why the government is adamant in purchasing the house?

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If you enjoyed reading this blog post then you will also enjoy reading about these historical houses:


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Many information in this post were obtained from the following online articles:



Searching for Wedding Rings and a Bad Day in Binondo Chinatown

My Beloved Wife and I roamed Binondo Chinatown few weeks before our wedding day to search for essential items: our wedding rings.

Binondo Chinatown is known as the center of Chinese culture in the country. Chinese restaurants, lucky charms, and Buddhist temples are few of the things that draw tourists to this place. And since the Chinese are known traders of gold and precious stones way back in the time when ships are wooden and sailed by the wind, it’s no wonder that Binondo Chinatown also has plenty of jewelry shops.

We started our search at the stores located at the east end of Ongpin Street, where plenty of jewelry store booths are located.

Chinatown Gold Center in Binondo Chinatown

We inquired at these booth stores to gauge the prices of wedding rings but we were wary. We’re not sure if what they’re selling is genuine or not. We continued walking through Ongpin Street but we didn’t know where to go. That is until we saw Eng Bee.

Eng Bee in Ongpin Street, Binondo Chinatown
It's closed because I took the photo weeks later.

My Beloved Wife saw a pair of wedding rings that she liked. The ring for the bride is a simple gold band with very small (point size) diamond for 10,000 pesos. The ring for the groom is also a simple gold band but without any stone. It costs 8,000 pesos.

The ring from Eng Bee was our best choice. But our search didn’t end there. We went to another shop that is highly recommended in wedding forums.

Entering that shop was my biggest mistake that day. I immediately noticed the stares, the sort that made me feel that I was being looked down upon. I asked about their wedding rings and their only answer is that they only offer “made to order rings”. We couldn’t take the atmosphere so we left the shop immediately.

My day was ruined after visiting that shop. I know that I don’t have plenty of money in my bank account. I don’t have my own car. And I know that I can never afford their made-to-order rings. But it is wrong that they look down upon me because of that. There are many courteous ways to treat poor customers like me.

We spent almost a whole day in Binondo Chinatown but in the end bought our rings in other place, which I will talk about in the next blog post.

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Wedding Prep blog series chronicles our adventures as we prepared for the Big Day. I hope that these blog posts help those who are preparing for their wedding day.

Do you have questions about our wedding preparation? Or do you want to know the name of the wedding ring supplier that ruined our day? Place your questions and comments at the comment section below or you may send a private message to my Facebook page.
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Chinese New Year Feast along Ongpin Street

Ongpin Street is abuzz this morning because of the Chinese New Year. That’s why I made it to point to pass through Ongpin Street just to see the festivities.

Binondo Chinatown 2014 Chinese New Year - balloon arch to Ongpin Street

The inflatable arch near the Carriedo Fountain welcomes visitors. Ongpin Street is adorned with Chinese lanterns.

Binondo Chinatown 2014 Chinese New Year - Chinese lanterns along Ongpin Street

It seems like the inflatable arches are popular these days. Even Lido de Paris Hotel has one and the kids posing with the balloon version of the Chinese lion.

Binondo Chinatown 2014 Chinese New Year - Chinese lion at Lido de Paris Hotel, Ongpin Street

Chinese New Year is all about luck. People want to be lucky that’s why they have firecrackers to ward off bad luck. Tigers and lions dance to bring good luck to businesses. And of course, lucky charms are available for those who want to attract good luck.

Binondo Chinatown 2014 Chinese New Year - lucky charms for sale along Ongpin Street

The weird thing is that the Holy Family and the crucifix were also made to become lucky charms. I know that evil spirits fear the Virgin Mary, Saint Joseph and Jesus Christ but they are not lucky charms. I think that luck, particularly Feng Sui, is incompatible with Christianity.

Binondo Chinatown 2014 Chinese New Year - Gabi (root crop) with red ribbon for luck

I’ve been seeing fruits and vegetables with red ribbons since the Christmas Season. Street vendors guarantee that these are special fruits and veggies because they bring in good fortune. I can’t believe that red ribbon have that special power to make things bringer of good luck. Maybe it’s the reason why Red Ribbon cakes are popular.

It is the “Year of the Horse” so most popular lucky charms are those related to horses like these figurines:

Binondo Chinatown 2014 Chinese New Year - horse lucky charms for sale along Ongpin Street

And that’s not all, I saw karatela with their horses at Plaza Lorenzo Ruiz. There might be a “parade of horses” this afternoon.

Binondo Chinatown 2014 Chinese New Year - horse

What I like with Binondo Chinatown is the food. There are so many restaurants to choose from and some of them have tickled Pinoy’s taste buds like this Fried Siopao shop along Ongpin.

Binondo Chinatown 2014 Chinese New Year - fried siopao shop along Ongpin Street

The queue of siopao buyers is very long. I wonder how good their siopao is. I will definitely try this after Chinese New Year, when the crowd is gone.

Castañas is also hot this time of the year.

Binondo Chinatown 2014 Chinese New Year - Castañas for sale along Ongpin Street

It is a very busy day for this castañas cook.
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Binondo Chinatown 2014 Chinese New Year - tikoy along Ongpin Street

My favorite tikoy is actually being sold right off the sidewalks. There’s so many many generic (or not popular brand) tikoy along Ongpin Street but people still queue for Eng Bee Tin’s tikoy. It seems like the crowd followed the media promotions done by news anchors and celebrities for Eng Bee Tin.

Binondo Chinatown 2014 Chinese New Year - Eng Bee Tin along Ong Pin Street

I’m glad to see that my favorite place along Ongpin Street has plenty of visitors.

Binondo Chinatown 2014 Chinese New Year - golden cross along Ongpin Street

Chinese New Year is the only day when Ongpin Street can rival the streets of Divisoria. The place is crowded even if only very small portion of Filipinos celebrate Chinese New Year.

Binondo Chinatown 2014 Chinese New Year - Chinatown arch

I noticed, however, that this year’s Chinese New Year is less gay as compared to the previous years’. I just saw few Chinese lion dancers. There is very long dragon and two Chinese lions near Binondo Church but that’s all that I saw this morning.

Binondo Chinatown 2014 Chinese New Year - dragon dancers

The only “live” performance that I saw was that mini-“ati-atihan” dance, which is not that lively compared to the real Ati-atihan.

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The current mode of Chinese New Year celebration is OK but I think it can be improved, especially that the government treated it as a national holiday. Chinese New Year may be made as day to highlight the Chinese culture and its connection with the Philippine society. I believe that more people will come to Binondo Chinatown if Chinese New Year is made to be a cultural festival.
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A Walk through Quintin Paredes Street

I finally came to the end of my Manila photo-tour. I started the photo-tour at the Savory Restaurant then I walked Calle Escolta until its end at Santa Cruz Church. I then walked few meters southward to reach Lacson Plaza. Then I took shots of the Manila Central Post Office, which is connected to Lacson Plaza by the MacArthur Bridge. In the previous post, I crossed Pasig River using the Jones Bridge, which is just a short walk east of the post office building. My walk along Jones Bridge ended with this view:
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View of Quintin Paredes Street from Jones Bridge.


Savory Restaurant is located to the right. It is not shown on the photo.

This means that I already came full circle (360 degrees)! But my photo-tour doesn't end at Savory. Let us take the final walk along Quintin Paredes Street.

By the way, before we continue please take another look at the above photo. Can you see the weird dome that have a lightning rod? That dome always reminds me of the helmet of Kaiser Wilhelm of Germany.
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Map of Quintin Paredes Street
(Source: Google Maps)

Quintin Paredes Street stretches from the north end of Jones Bridge to Reina Regente Street. It is the road used by people who want to reach the Binondo Chinatown and Divisoria.
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Chinese - Filipino friendship arch along Quintin Paredes Street.


This is the Filipino – Chinese Friendship Arch. It marks the “boundary” of the Binondo District. To its left is the old but beautiful building occupied by Philtrust Bank.
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Chinese-designed arch along Quintin Paredes Street.


I always imagine this arch being manned by archers. I pretend to be rained with arrows while I cross Jones Bridge. But the pitiful bowmen are no match to my horde for they met their death when I reached their arch. Ha! (Ooops...I was carried away by daydreams (Ok back to the photo-tour)).

The arch is obviously part of the Chinese culture. This arch also serves as a mark to a heritage that took root in Binondo since the beginning of the Philippines. Chinese merchants had a flourishing trade with the Filipinos during the Spanish Colonial Period. Many of these merchants decided to settle down in Manila. The government authorities gave them the area on the north bank of Pasig River, which is now called as Binondo. Thus, Binondo became the center of Chinese culture in the Philippines.
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Quintin Paredes Street


Calle Rosario is the original name of this street. Quintin Paredes is a politician who became a representative of Abra, a Filipino resident commissioner in America during the American Colonial Period, solicitor general and Senate president after the Second World War.

Only few pre-World War 2 buildings remain along Quintin Paredes Street. Some were destroyed during the War. Others gave way to high rise buildings.
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Old building along Quintin Paredes Street


The beige-colored building in the photo is possibly a pre-World War 2 building. The columns at its front and some decorations belong to that period.

A lot of Chinese restaurants can be found along Quintin Paredes Street. The restaurant where I had eaten Hainan chicken can be found along this street.
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Quintin Paredes Street


Quintin Paredes Street is the direct way to Binondo Church.
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Binondo Church at the intersection of Ongpin Street and Quintin Paredes Street.


The intersection of this street with Ongpin Street is marked by this monument:
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Roman Ongpin statue along Quintin Paredes Street.


That monument was erected in honor of Roman Ongpin.
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Statue of Roman Ongpin along Quintin Paredes Street.


Roman Ongpin was an official during the Spanish Colonial Period with the title, Teniente Primero de Mestizos. He caught the ire of the colonial government when he collaborated with the Propaganda Movement and joined the rebellion against the Spanish government.

Ongpin Street, which passes through the center of Binondo Chinatown, is also named in his honor.
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Ongpin Street
Ongpin Street

That ends my Manila photo-tour. I will continue my photo-tour when I return home from Thailand. I will try to capture the scenes of Ongpin Street and other areas of historical Manila. But if you really want to see a piece of Ongpin Street please read my post about Chinese New Year in Binondo Chinatown. Please click on this link to read my other posts about Manila.

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Information about Quintin Paredes was obtained from the Office of the Solicitor General website.

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Discover My Favorite Hopia

In an old post about Polland hopia, I said that I will try to compare that hopia to other hopia that is being offered by other stores. Guess what, I finally visited the most famous hopia shop in town and I got the taste of their special hopia. I also discovered my favorite hopia, which I tell you later.

The shop that I am talking about is this:
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Eng Bee Tin

This is Eng Bee Tin, the most popular Chinese food shop not only in Binondo Chinatown but also in the City of Manila. During the recent Chinese New Year, many people flocked to all branches of Eng Bee Tin to buy tikoy.
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Buyers at Eng Bee Tin
People lining up for tikoy.

As I had said, Eng Bee Tin is also the home for best hopia.
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Hopia of Eng Bee Tin
A rackful of hopia!

Eng Bee Tin offers hopia with different kinds of flavors. There is the original red mongo hopia and the hopiang baboy. Other flavors are the ube hopia, mocha hopia, wintermelon hopia, choco hopia and other flavors that I never thought would be good for hopia.
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Hopia of Eng Bee Tin
Mochipia and hopia red mongo.

Last December, My Beloved's parents (a.k.a. my future biyenans) visited Manila. As a pasalubong for their grandchildren in Davao, I bought a basket-full of hopia.
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Hopia of Eng Bee Tin

There I discovered my favorite hopia and that is pastillas-ube combi hopia. It became my instant favorite because I love pastillas and it suits my addiction to sweets.

Sadly, I also discovered my most unliked hopia and that is pandan hopia, which tastes bland.

Compared to Polland's hopia, Eng Bee Tin's hopia is softer and tastes better. So, whenever I crave for hopia, I prefer Eng Bee Tin's hopia than Polland's hopia.

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Visit Ahab Reviews and Tips and read about the shops where you can buy the best hopia.
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Chinese New Year in Binondo Chinatown

I can't resist going to Chinatown in Binondo, Manila to see the Chinese New Year celebration. The last time I visited Chinatown for the New Year celebration is in 2009. The Chinese New Year is the most joyous feast in Binondo and many people, tourists, and non-Chinese like me visit Binondo Chinatown to see what’s happening.

Ongpin Street, which is the main street of Binondo Chinatown, is well decorated. You will see that the Filipino-Chinese loves their New Year celebration.
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Entering Binondo Chinatown, you will be welcomed by this arch:
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Like the usual, Chinese New Year in Binondo is jubilant and noisy. Lion dancers were on Ongpin Street and visiting various establishments in Binondo Chinatown. Store owners let the lions in for good luck.
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There is also the fabled dragon carried by dragon dancers. The dragon kept on chasing a ball, which represents the moon.
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Chinese New Year in Binondo is not only about Chinese elements taking the center stage. I saw this big cross along Ongpin Street where Binondo Chinatown residents and visitors light josh sticks and say a prayer in front of the cross. Quite a blending of Catholic and Chinese elements in Binondo Chinatown. 
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While I am walking along Ongpin Street, I saw a clump of people watching lion and dragon dancers dance in front of a certain restaurant. I saw these people preparing firecrackers:
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After the firecrackers, the lion dancers and dragon dancers continued their dance.
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I guess Charlie’s Tea House will have good luck for 2011.
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Hmmm...I saw this inside the tea house:
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Looks delicious! Maybe I will try eating at Charlie’s Tea House in the future.

Of course, good luck charms are selling like pancakes on the streets of Binondo Chinatown.
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I don't believe in good luck charms so I didn't bother buying one. The popular good luck charms are the ones depicting a rabbit, which is very suitable for the year of the metal rabbit.
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Porcelain rabbits for 30 pesos apiece.

I walked along Ongpin Street until I reached the other gate of Binondo Chinatown and this lion statue said, "good bye."

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Visit Ahab Reviews and Tips and read how to reach the new location of Consular Affairs Office when you applying for a Philippine passport.
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